Paul Martin American Bistro Opens In El Segundo

I had the pleasure of participating in the soft opening at Paul Martin’s American Bistro on Monday, February 23.  This event offered diners the choice of an appetizer, an entree, and a dessert item to share (or to enjoy in solitude if dining alone!).

Paul Martin's American Bistro

The Setting

The interior of the restaurant is classy and comfortable at the same time.  The entrance is like something from an artist’s loft with greenery along the sidewalk and tall, rusted iron beams supporting the glass around the patio.  A sidewalk leads up to the glass door entrance. Inside, the front of the venue houses the bar area where two large community tables sit between the bar and a few booths.  Beyond the bar is a larger dining area with tables and booths.  Just outside the main dining room is the patio which faces Rosecrans Ave.  I took a seat at the waist-high community table which offered a great view of the bar and the big screen TV’s behind it.  My server, Will, was immediately attentive and asked for my drink order.  He also offered some insight on the menu while I waited on Nicole to join me.

Starters and Drinks

Once Nicole arrived, we dove right into the menu, starting with drinks and appetizers.  I opted for iced tea.  Nicole ordered the Red Pear Martini which is made with house infused red pear vodka, fresh lemon, and rosemary.  The tea was light with a mild, natural sweetness.  The pear martini was smooth with a refreshing pear flavor.  The flavor was so smooth, in fact, that we wondered if there was any liquor in it.  The only clue was a slight alcohol warmth at the back of the tongue when swallowing.  A perfect drink for those wanting a lighter beverage, but be careful!  Start throwing these back and they might catch up with you.

It was difficult to choose from the array of enticing appetizers; everything sounded good.  I ordered calamari and convinced Nicole to order the spare ribs.

Spare ribs and crispy cole slaw

The ribs, to our surprise, were only slightly warm when they arrived at our table.  When asked about the temperature, Will explained that the ribs are served on an unheated plate so they are more easily handled when eaten.  Also, they’re paired with a cold, apple slaw; a hot plate might alter that arrangement.  What the ribs lacked in temperature, they made up for in flavor.  The tender, lightly smoky meat came off the bone without effort.  These ribs were good, Nicole remarked, for a place that doesn’t specialize in barbecue.

The calamari was also a treat.  Will explained that the calamari is soaked in buttermilk, lightly breaded, and then fried.  The temperature and texture were near perfect; pleasantly warm and tender with calamari’s natural firmness.  The flavor was heightened by the two sauces that accompanied the dish: chili aioli and a mildly spicy, house cocktail sauce.  The chili aioli paired with the fish was amazing.  The flavors melded to produce a very tasty, mouth pleasing experience.  More on the aioli in a minute.

Entrees

For our main dishes, we selected the Bistro Burger and the BLT.  The burger, ordered medium well, came out nicely cooked and with a huge, huge portion of crispy, lightly seasoned fries.

Bistro Burger with Cheddar Cheese and Bacon

I added bacon and Tillamook cheddar to my burger.  The cheese was perfectly melted over the patty and topped with the bacon that was pleasantly crisp, but perhaps too crispy for a burger.  The burger was served with lettuce, tomatoes, and the most delicious pickles I’ve ever tasted in a restaurant.  The thinly sliced pickles were so fresh and crisp, I was convinced that someone’s grandma was back in the kitchen making them by hand!  The bun was equally delicious but a little too big for my liking.  I removed the top bun (after scraping off some of the black pepper aioli) and enjoyed the burger open faced, focusing on the cheese, bacon, and pickles.

The BLT was served on a equally fresh bun and stuffed with the same crispy bacon, fresh lettuce, and tomatoes that were ripe but not to tender.  It was also accompanied by a mound of fries.  An organic baby lettuce salad is also an option as a side for burgers and sandwiches.

Sauces

I mentioned the chili aioli that accompanied the calamari.  Oh, and the pepper aioli that paired deliciously on the burger.  I commented on the aiolis to the manager and she offered yet another one: a pesto aioli.  Wow!  This one was packed with flavor and would be a great accompaniment to a sandwich or salad.  I tried to pick my favorite between the three – chili, black pepper, and pesto – but was stumped.  Each was paramount in its domain.  The chili aioli lifted the calamari from good to great.  The black pepper aioli gave the perfect spice (and slight saltiness) to the burger and fries.  And I imagined how the pesto aioli would nicely compliment a turkey or ham sandwich.

Dessert

The dessert menu also made for a tough decision with banana cream pie, crème brulee, and strawberry shortcake immediately catching my eye.  Nicole and I were both pleasantly stuffed by this time and decided to go for the devil’s food cake, thinking that it would be easier to carry out than the other options.  With paired it with cappuccino.

The cake, stacked three layers high, was rich and moist with a pleasantly firm texture.  The ganache frosting, made from Valrhona chocolate, was creamy and provided a nice balance to the texture of the cake.  The cake was served with sour cherries, dark and mouthwateringly bittersweet; their sharpness played well with the cake’s sweetness.  I was very impressed with the cappuccino.  It was bold but not overwhelming and paired nicely with the cake.

Summary

Paul Martin’s American Bistro has a lot to offer for diners seeking a meal that is fresh, served expertly, and offered at a reasonable price.  In addition to lunch and dinner, Paul Martin’s offers a happy hour from 3-6 PM with selected drinks and appetizers at half price.  If that wasn’t enough, valet parking is free before 5 PM.  With so much to offer, Paul Martin’s American Bistro is a unique treat for Southern California diners that is only available in the South Bay.

Paul Martin’s American Bistro
2361 Rosecrans Ave.
El Segundo, CA 90245
310-643-9300

http://www.paulmartinsamericanbistro.com

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